Trip to Azerbaijan. Part 1

The trip to Azerbaijan was one my aims, when I just arrived in Armenia. Even though people kept telling that I won't be let to enter this state, because of Armenian visa stamp in my passport, I wanted to experience that on my own. My two friends(Oleh and Andrew) from Lviv agreed to join me in this trip. After all arrangements were done and road-trip planned, it was just a matter of days for the trip to begin.

On 12th of January, nearly 3.40 a.m. the plane from Stambul with my friends landed, and we rushed to the night train which was leaving on 4 a.m. The train station is very close to the airport and is a good mean of transport to get to the centre cheap. The price for taxi can range from 20 GEL (Georgian currency; 1 lari is equal to almost 0.50 euro ) to 40 GEL. But who needs such expences when the train costs only 0.50 GEL. However we were the only ones on this train, and the conductor said not to pay. We celebrated that with Abkhazian homemade chacha. Actually it was kinda cold, and it made us warmer. So the night train took us to the main train station, however the normal passage was closed, so the only way for us to reach the other side was to cross rails. After that we took the taxi to Rustaveli Street to meet with our friend Sandro, who agreed to stay with us until we leave to the boarder, as well as assist us in finding the bus to the border, which is called Red Bridge (Krasnyi Most). 

The bus is departing from the main train station, so we once again went there at around 9. The bus was already there, and the price for the 2-hour long ride was 4 GEL per person. We managed to sleep a little on our way, and when we arrived we went to the passport check-up. It went very fast on the Georgian side. Then we came to Azerbaijan side, guys went really fast, and as for me, I had to speak with some sort of higher officer. He asked me question why I am in Armenia, have I been to Karabakh and questions like that. Nothing very serious, and after 15 minutes I had a stamp of Azerbaijan in my passport and looking forward to explore this state. 

Just after crossing the border, we were almost literally attacked by taxi drivers, which we called Cab Vultures. In their eyes you are seen as walking bags of money. One of the taxi drivers named a price of 200 manats (currency of Azerbaijan, which is almost equal to euro) to travel to Ganja. Later after hearing that we can speak Russian, he immediately reduced the price to 30. I noticed that these drivers really like to bargain. Maybe its even fun for them. Nevertheless, we didn't agree on that, and at the end we went by bus which took us 5 dollars(almost 4 manats) each. 

After about 4 hours we have reached Ganja and were met by my friend Kamran. He kindly offered us his place to stay, where his mother fed us with some very tasty local cuisine. After having some rest, we went for a walk round the city. Ganja is one of the oldest city in Azerbaijan, and has a very rich history starting from 6 century. We wondered round the city, been to the main square with, of course a statue to Aliyev. Quite a huge square is surrounded with beautiful buildings and exotic trees and plants. At the end of the square there is an old mosque. The central street is very clean, and together with palm trees in the middle of the winter has a very exotic look.

The most awesome thing for me in Ganja was the traditional for this region teahouse. A really relaxing place. At the entrance you take off your shoes and lay on the comfortable sofa to drink tea, eat exotic sweets and smoke hookah (nagrile). In the tea house we met Kamran's friend, with whom I seem to have lots of common friends from Youth in Action and other education programs. World is small after all. 

Another very interesting place for us was Hamam. It is some sort a public shower place. The one we went to, was really old and not very clean. It left quite a big impression on me and my friends. We never experienced something like this, though we travelled quite a lot and not very needy in our demands. 

Also we managed to see one of city sights - it's a house made mostly from bottles. A perfect place for bottle-hunters.)  What also catches the eye are the portraits of Aliyev everywhere. His role of Azerbaijani progress is of course great, but personally I think that a cult of one person must not exist nowadays, basing on sad experience of past. 

It is also obvious that city is now facing serious changes. As we were told, after modernizing Baku the government decided to implement this politics with other cities, and Ganja was the first on that list. As a strong argument for that fact, I can say that even the river which flows in Ganja is now "stopped" in order to make some repairs of the roads, as well make the surroundings more beautiful.

Unfortunately our stay in Ganja wasn't very long, as we were quite tight on time and we still had lots of road to cover. So after staying a day there, we had to leave it for Baku. 

I made a promise to come here again. And this time for longer.

to be continued..

all photos by A. Spivak and his Iphone

Georgia. Armenian Community in Georgia. NY party

As part of my New Year's celebration in wonderful Georgia, a New Year's party with Armenian community was planned. My friend David, invited me there, as also provided me with a bed for two days. The party took place in the district called "Avlabari", which is known to be a former Armenian one. Near Avlabari metro station there is an Armenian church and also traders of Armenian decent can be found there. It is also on the way to Sameba (the new church of Holy Trinity) which is worth visiting for sure.

The party started at about 8 p.m., so as we arrived there I got acquinted with David's friends, who gave me a warm greeting. After some preparations were done, the celebration started with some official greetings from the priest of Armenian Church and leader of Armenian Federation. What was kinda sad, was the fact that embassador didn't show up, but instead send his assistant. I hope he had a valid reason to be absent, as I think that this community trully deserves to be prized for all the efforts they are doing and a show up of the embassador would trully be appreciated, even for a while.

The celebrations proceeded with a lot of dances which I liked; moreover I managed to almost master one. I am very proud of it. It is called Kochari. Also now I know some traditional Caucasian dancing moves, which are quite funny, but nevertheless joyfull. Also there was a lot of Armenian traditional songs performed both by organizers and members of community. 

Besides celebrating New Year, one of the aims was also to collect money for Syrian Armenians, who at the moment are facing war. The part of ticket price was devoted to this, as well some auctions were held to gather some costs.

In general lots of songs and events were perfomed, however, what I think is not a good thing, that they are held simultaneously with eating, which causes some lack of attention. But I suppose it is such a tradition here.

I would like to thank this community for great organization and fun I had, and personally my friend David for the invitation. My acquitance with Armenian culture continues...

photos by Sergo Arekelyan