5/29/2014

Lifetrippin. "In the land of Lukashenka" pt.2

part one of my story here.


9th of May in Belarus is a special day. Victory Day over the fascists. It is celebrated with a huge military parade, together with a variety of events for young and old as a follow-up. One of our goals for this trip, was to see this parade, as it is quite an extraordinary experience. Unfortunately, in order to make it for the start, we had to leave Grodno at 5 in the morning, as the parade had to begin at 9 a.m. and to last only for 4 hours. We decided to skip this possibility, as it would influence our further plans. So around 11 a.m., we headed to the bus station, and were lucky to be offered a place to go in a private mini-van, for a cheaper price (120 000 Belarussian rubles), together with a possibility to arrive to Minsk a bit as faster. There were 5 passengers all together with us. The quality of the road was good, we drove quite fast, and again, the surroundings looked very clean and ...green. On our way we also noticed, so-called agro-villages, those specially focusing on the production of groceries. I think super-eco-natural as well. 


Having arrived to Minsk, we had to meet Roman, an owner of the flat, where we had to stay. Actually before our trip, we encountered real problem with finding an accommodation in Minsk. The issue was not only with a price (as it went up at least three times higher to the previous level), but also with availability (almost everything was reserved, and those options left were hotels for the price bigger than budget of our trip). Luckily we managed to find place for a crash, using a service called "airbnb". It is based on the concept of couchsurfing, but is...paid. Though for relatively small money. All the couchsurfings requests we made, were not successful, so we decided to try this "airbnb". And actually it was a good choice, as we met this amazing family. 

Another issue to think over, is a popular thought that after this major tournament, those hotels and other buildings built for the purposes of the event, later on, will not be profitable, unless the state will imply more tourist friendly atmosphere together actually with creating recreation complexes around Belarus (which believe me, has lots of potential to do so). Otherwise, they should be used as dorms or apartments for young families for a lower rate. Time will show.
 
After Roman met us, and gave us a brief introductory info we needed to know, we headed to his flat. On our way there we also decided to visit the famous library, as it was not far away from the suburb district we were living. Indeed it looks wonderful, and surely brings a desire to read books and study...at least I wanted.

What I actually studied, were my first impressions about Minsk - nice train station, good architecture in the center and typical soviet blocks, as we moved further to the suburbs. To our surprise we were living in a newly built building. And as it turns out, it’s not easy to get a place here, unless you work in IT-Service sphere. So does Roman, and as he explained us, there is a state program, aimed on developing and expending this sector, and which provides some benefits for the young families. Good move Lukashenko!

After arriving on the spot, we gathered ourselves together, and headed to explore Minsk before the match. We didn't had too much time though, so after grabbing some food on our way, we went closer to the stadium, as later it could be some issue with getting inside. As we moved closer to the arena, we met lots of Slovak and Czech fans, who were in an amazing mood, and tried to share it with local fans and other those who decided to visit the game.

The matches of the championship were held on Minsk and Chyzovka Arenas, and the latter being the place where we had ours. It is a newly build beauty, which however on the first game, was not that crowded. Though the atmosphere which was in the air was amazing. Well, also alcohol was in the air...One of the biggest nation-consumers of beer and other strong beverages came to visit, and Belarus with its cheaper prices, was a perfect place for that. I think the revenues received in May, could cover at least half of the regular year expected income. The merchandise and its distribution was visible, with lots of flags, caps, etc., positively influencing great atmosphere. 

So moment left, and here we go. The game started with a strong pressure from Czech team, showing they wanted to play the first role here. Slovaks unfortunately didn't look to unite and their attacks were quite chaotic. These eventually ended in them conceding a goal. However to our excitement it didn't break them down. Moreover, they started to play really good, and managed to score two goals. Czechs were definitely not settling with such score, and turned their speed and aggression on. That meant only more emotionally match. And the game was heading to the end, and Slovaks were really close to claiming victory, but on almost last moments, Czech superstar, Jaromir Jagr scored a goal, thus giving us additional time. Maybe it crashed Slovak team, as soon after the overtime started, another goal was scored, and ended the game. 3-2 for Czechs, a truly fascinating game, with Slovak goalkeeper being a real hero in preventing the score to be bigger and embarrassing.

Due to closeness and let’s say brotherhood between these nations, Slovak fans were not too disappointed with the result, as yes, it was only the first game of the tournament, and many more chances to change the situation to the better side. Another important matter to mention was, as I was told, that their playing roster was quite young and new, as nearly 15 players couldn't participate in the championship due to a variety of reasons.

Game ended. So it was time to get home. Two hours before the game, we decided to order a taxi to arrive just after the finish of the game, in order to get home fast. Nonetheless to our big surprise and wondering for 20 minutes around the stadium we found no sign of our taxi, and after another call, we were told that taxi....left cause there was too much people and cars. That was super weird. And as it looked, in our opinion, the taxi driver was just lucky to find some drunk foreigners who could offer him more for the service. Anyway, we lost some time, and we had to use the public transport to get to our suburbs. Though travelling in night also was fun. For example, after getting to tram and wanting to buy a ticket for the ride, driver said, that...tickets are over, so you can ride for free. Seems like not a problem or us.

After getting to the flat, we finally met Natalya, the wife of Roman. They were tired as well, but an opportunity to speak with each other made us talk until 3 a.m., as we really bonded and found out about our cultures, and got answers and questions we had. For example, answering the question about, why the money value is so low, Roman explained to us, that devaluation of the currency is a subject to the low export rate. This means that the currency is not backed up on external market. Things are being produced, even without fulfilling demand, and later on they can just keep covering with a dust in meantime. 

I also took a chance to ask what they think about Customs Union, as it is a hot subject in the post-soviet area. Organization which is planned as an alternative for the European Union, and in future ought to be evolved into Eurasian Union (sounds like a modern name for USSR), currently consist of Russia, Belarus and Kazakhstan. Nonetheless the work on its expanding is boiling, as this organization doesn't want to lose possible member states and markets of influence. The reply was that the benefits or some failures are not yet too visible. However some time ago, I heard, that recently Belarus was struck by increased "import" of drugs, possibly coming from far east. It has increased the level of addicted in the country, but also is prosecuted with severe sanctions, to those who were caught using them.

Our acquaintance with Minsk also continued the next day. We wondered around parks and huge squares, enjoyed views of nice buildings, seen happy people with atmosphere of celebration in their minds and hearts. Even after we were attacked by a weather, we remained with positive thoughts. For me this city looked very much like Kyiv, with signs in Belarussian strengthening the feeling (we have some letters  and lots of words which are the same). People usually use Russian language as the communicative one, as only two times during whole the trip, I have heard Belarussian in use. Not an issue I think, just a fact.

Having lived in European country for a while, I could also hear different stereotypes about Belarus - "everything is prohibited there", "they have no free access to social networks",  "there are no products from west", "no major foreign companies have offices there". Well, this is not true. And it was not a journey back to USSR. It was an experience of slightly different lifestyle. Checkmate.

What made me a bit surprised, was that particular restaurants or bars, have some sort of "state regulated tariff" to take affect there. It can mean that prices on a particular dish, in a specific place cannot go higher then prescribed. Also if you want to change your currency for the local one, and are afraid that the rates in the exchange offices at the station would be much lower...then don't be. It is regulated by government, and thus helps with avoiding manipulations and cheating with rates.

And everything really good comes to the end (new adventures). Having said good-bye to our new friends and friednly state, we took the night train Minsk - Grodno(and early bus there), and headed back to Poland. 

One thing is sure. It is not our last visit to Belarus. Same I recommend to You. Give up one vacation to somewhere west, and explore this country. Our trip was sunny, full of emotions and impressions. So I wish to You. Karma is working. Explore! and keep Road Trippin’!


Money spent on the trip (per person)
Route - Krakow - (Kielce, Warsaw) Bialystok - Grodno - Minsk - Grodno - Bialystok - Krakow
Days - 4
Road - 50 euros
Accommodation - 60 euros



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