This is
a story of my trip to Moldova and Eastern Romania. It took me 7 days to cover
almost 1700 km with three means of transportation. The story will be split in
three parts. First chapter is about Moldova. Starting point is city called Chernivtsi.
"-
Good day, how can we get to Chisinau by train?
- You can't. Good-bye"
The
conversation was odd and happened to me and my girlfriend Roksana at the train
station in Chernivtsi. The guy at the information desk, was clearly having a
bad day, or maybe he was not a big fan of Moldova. Anyway, his manners were
even more far away than Moldova is. Unable to receive much information from
him, I went to another ticket window, where woman did or at least tried to give
me some advices.
She told
that indeed there is a train to Moldova, but if we take it we would find
ourselves there at 1 a.m. Near the border (place called Larga) and the chances
to get somewhere close to a big city at that time are very miserable. So she
said to look for the busses at the bus station. One of the locals told us about
the bus, for which you have to wait near the train station and which comes at
approximately 1-2 a.m, but maybe a bit later. And there is no pre-booking for
the bus. Approximately. Maybe a bit later. Yes that’s right, and even though it
sounded adventurous, we didn’t fall for this idea, as we needed to arrive to
Chisinau as soon as possible in order to stick to our more or less free
schedule after. Thus, we got to know about the daily bus at 20.45 from the bus
station on Holovna (literally Main) street. The cost of the ticket is around 11
euros. The total time of travel had to be 9 hours, which is really a lot for
330 km. It was probably the only time, when I wanted the bus to arrive
according to the timetable, so we wouldn't have to wait somewhere in the middle
of the night. Though it happened of course, as having passed the
Ukrainian-Moldovian boarder (by the way, they have WI-FI there) in about 20
minutes, we arrived to night and sleepy Chisinau at 4.45, two hours before the
predefined time. The city looked tired, and surprised to see such early
visitors. As we arrived to the central bus station (or Gara Central), which of
course was closed, local vultures - taxi drivers, were already upon our heads
and money. Be careful not to be overcharged for a ride, and be prepared that
they will also add some extra fee because of the luggage you are carrying, as
it seems to be a usual thing in Moldova.
We had
to wait somewhere, and we were disappointed to discover that the Mecca for the
majority of waiting tourists and travelers - McDonalds, works from 7 till 4.
And the only option we had basically (besides some night bars) was the main
train station. We went there, and it actually turned out to be tidy, tiny and
warm. Just what we needed.
The
only thing we lack, was that the charging of all the electronic devices was not
allowed, and the security guard prohibited us to try that, saying "be
grateful that I allowed you here, since you don't have train tickets".
Well, thank you. But seriously. Otherwise we wouldn't be able to meet a
charming traveler from Japan - Takeshi Okumura.
A 73-old
ex-sailor on retirement, is just travelling round the globe. He has been to 130
countries already, and looking at this energetic and passionate man - that is
not the full list. Amazing factor is that he barely speaks English, but
together with his handy e-translator, he is managing to request what he wants
and get where he needs. He told
us some fascinating and funny stories, as well as gave us introduction lesson
into Japanese language. We didn’t expect that at 5 a.m. at the train station in
Moldavian capital?!
After
such a positive time-spending, we met our friend Luda, who I have met on the
project within “Youth in Action” program in Diyarbakir (Turkey). She kindly
agreed to help us in discovering her native land and hometown.
What
can I say about Chisinau? It's a nice city, with lots of green places and parks.
Even if you open TripAdvisor and scroll through the top attractions of the
city, you will find mostly parks. We didn't find some amazing buildings with
vivid architecture, but we surely enjoyed the atmosphere in the air. Traveler
must also try the local cuisine, which is delicious, and a restaurant called
"La Placinta" is strongly recommended to visit for this purpose. Chisinau
is also one of few cities I have been to, where a ticket for the bus can be purchased
only from a controller (a popular or let me say usual job during the communist
rule). The city, being a capital, has also cheap prices. On the main square you can find a board, where you can leave your message. Nowadays, it is full of ones addressing Putin.
The
amount of flags of European Union on the streets is really huge. People here (as
well as in Ukraine for example) see EU not only as destination of integration,
but a way to escape communistic background and dependency from Russia. However
important thing is to remember, that EU, it’s not a universal remedy, and
putting a flag on the building will not solve issues by itself or destroy bureaucracy
and corruption. Efforts. Efforts from every citizen is needed to make a change.
City,
being explored by us within day and a half, wanted a break. After having a huge de-tour round Chisinau, we decided that next day we will spend outside it and
go to a place called "Old Orhei" or "Orheiul Vechi" in
Romanian. The ride there takes around one hour, and it will open to you super amazing
landscapes and original and atmospheric cave church. The bus there goes from
Central Bus station. But it’s quite hard to find it, unless you don't speak
Russian, as the bus park there is quite anarchical. Young people usually speak English
as well, but also if you know some basic Italian or Spanish, then you will not
get lost there, as Romanian language on which Moldavians talk is really
similar.
My experience
in Moldova was positive, as it reached my expectations. And I would love to
spend there some more days (in particular Transnistria), but the road was
calling.
Our
next destination was Romania. And the best option what it seemed was to go to a
city called Iasi. The busses departure from Southern Station (Gara de Sud), and
it takes approximately 4 hours to reach the final destination. The bus ticket
costs approximately 7 euros.
The
ride and the road to Iasi itself were quite good, and we even didn’t notice how
quickly it went.
To be continued in next part with our
experience in Iasi and Bucharest
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